Stop Microsoft
Miscellaneous => The Lounge => Topic started by: Xeniczone on 22 March 2006, 04:54
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Ok, Here is my story.
I was on my gameing computer I was playing battlefeild 2 I was already mad because my team was losing. When my bro. came up and said the game wouldn't work I went into the other room, looked at the screen it said "Please put in a Playstation or Playstation 2 format disk." I thought he put the disk in backwards again so I ejected the disk and it was in right. I looked at the bottom at the disk and the thing was scratched like crazy!!! there was so many scratches on the bottom you couldn't measure a 1cm difference between them. Pissed off I asked what had happened and who is going to give me the 50 bucks for the disk.
Anyway I started learning that I started looking up on the internet how to fix them I have seen the Disk Doctor and it was 40 bucks i would perfer a new disk. But is there a cheaper way that works !!!NOT TOOTHPASTE IT JUST MAKES IT WORST!!! I start pulling out cleaning solution and consintrated asid on cd-r i scratched on purpose to see what would work.
Bottom line:
How to fix a scratch cd CHEAP?
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Most of the stuff I've tried failed :( Only real way is to prevent scratching ... assuming that is possible. I once saw these protective transparent sieves that would attach to the disk and being transparent the laser could read through the film ... they were rather expensive though ... do they exist ... was I dreaming ... I'm not sure anymore ... I don't know what's real anymore !!!
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Scratched CDs can be fixed if you are willing to put in a significant amount of work on it.
First the ingredients:
1 Scratched CD
2 Soft cotton cloths - preferably the type you would use for waxing a car
1 Rotary Polisher (optional)
1 bottle of car polish (not WAX, polish)
1 pack of fine sandpaper - 600 grit
Now, the instructions:
Take your CD and clean it thoroughly with soap and warm water. Don;'t worry. Soap and water will not damage it. Every day Dish-Soap will do just fine. Don't use solvents. Solvents will destroy the CD
Once the CD is clean, grab your 600 grit sandpaper and wet sand the data surface of the CD until it's completely dull. It's very important that you wet sand the CD. Dry sanding it will create a surface that is too rough and permanently damage your CD. if you've never wet-sanded anything don't worry - it's not hard. Just soak the sandpaper in water frequently and/or sand the CD while running it under your faucet. Sand it lightly and try and sand the entire surface evenly. When you are done, the CDs data surface should be completely dull (non-reflective) and have the same dullness across the entire area of the CD. it should also be very smooth to the touch. If there are still scratches on the CD, keep sanding until they are gone and the entire disc is smooth.
After sanding your CD, dry it thoroughly and apply car polish liberally to the data surface.
If you have a rotary polisher, apply polish to the buffer cloth, turn the polisher on hold it upside down. Lightly run the surface of the CD over the buffer to polish the CD back to usable form. If your buffer is an "industrial grade" type, it can potentially shatter your CD, so this method must be employed with great care. Even the cheapo buffers you get at the local k-mart can be dangerous to a CD, so be gentle. Continue to buff the CD, adding polish as it dries out until the surface is shiny again.
If you DON'T have a rotary buffer, grab your cotton cloth and polish the surface of the CD by hand. Doing it by hand requires that you appply a good deal of pressure and, and it will take onsiderably longer than the buffer method. Keep polishing the CD, remembering to add polish when it runs out, until the data surface is shiny again.
Assuming there was not damage to the label side of the CD, when you are done, your CD will be in mint condition.
In case you are wondering, yes, I've done this myself with an old Nirvana CD that I've owned for ten years. Before fixing it, several tracks would not even play all the way through. Afterwards I was able to rip the entire CD to my computer with zero read errors.
Good luck.
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How does that work exactly? I'm not saying it won't. But just that I have no idea how it would.
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How does that work exactly? I'm not saying it won't. But just that I have no idea how it would.
It works becaus the "data" side of a CD doesn't actually contain the data. The data of a CD is written on the underside of the label side of the CD. The data side of a CD is simply clear plastic. Scracthes obscure the view of the CD's laser - the data underneath is still there - the CD just can't see it. Sanding down the CD's "data" side and polishing back to a miror finish simply restores CD drives ability to view the data.
The process I've descrived above is the "poor-mans method" of doing what commercial CD restoration services do. There are machines you can buy that do this automatically - movie rental stores have them and use them for the DVDs they rent out. The process can be repeated several times on the same CD/DVD, though I'm not sure how many times though. Eventually the CD would become to thin and the CD/DVD drive would probably have trouble reading it.
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Googling found:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43394&&source=14&doy=search
http://www.303sonicblast.com/
http://shopping.kelkoo.co.uk/b/a/ss_cd_repair_kit.html
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I think the one about sanding will work but there is a problem even with fine sand paper this is a dvd and the laser is smaller focus so even the thinest scrach distracts the stupid dvd and its a playstation 2 that is 5 years old (got it when it first come out) the thing has enough issues with reading disks that are new you know stick it in 10 mins before you want to play and 10mins later when you want to play it has just loaded.
The only issue I see with this is it makes the cd thinner it happened to my mortal kombat 3 disk. I got it from family video and they have one of those big "pro" cd fixers. I was thinking of asking them how much it would cost to fix my cd if they would. but anyway. i could see that the disk had been though that device with the marks visible on the playstions black disk. the stupid cd was so thin it snaped in half inside my hand. let alone what a high speed cd rom drive could or would have done to that.
the smallest sand paper i have is 100 I will try to get rid of some of the sand and try it on a test cd then i don't have care polish that doesn't have wax in it so I will use rust remover that has acid in it that got rid of some of the marks made on the disk in one of my test.
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Ok, Here is my story.
I was on my gameing computer I was playing battlefeild 2 I was already mad because my team was losing. When my bro. came up and said the game wouldn't work I went into the other room, looked at the screen it said "Please put in a Playstation or Playstation 2 format disk." I thought he put the disk in backwards again so I ejected the disk and it was in right. I looked at the bottom at the disk and the thing was scratched like crazy!!! there was so many scratches on the bottom you couldn't measure a 1cm difference between them. Pissed off I asked what had happened and who is going to give me the 50 bucks for the disk.
Anyway I started learning that I started looking up on the internet how to fix them I have seen the Disk Doctor and it was 40 bucks i would perfer a new disk. But is there a cheaper way that works !!!NOT TOOTHPASTE IT JUST MAKES IT WORST!!! I start pulling out cleaning solution and consintrated asid on cd-r i scratched on purpose to see what would work.
Bottom line:
How to fix a scratch cd CHEAP?
are you sure it's the disc when I had a PS2 a few years back it slowly stopped reading most of my discs (until I opened it and cleaned the lens)
by the way, I just got BF2 and it pwns. :thumbup:
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the smallest sand paper i have is 100 I will try to get rid of some of the sand and try it on a test cd then i don't have care polish that doesn't have wax in it so I will use rust remover that has acid in it that got rid of some of the marks made on the disk in one of my test.
You will destroy the disc with 100grit sand paper and rust remover.
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(long solution)
You rule. :thumbup:
A question, though...will this method fix more than scratches? (ie, smearing, etc.)
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You rule. :thumbup:
A question, though...will this method fix more than scratches? (ie, smearing, etc.)
AFAIK, it should fix any physical defects on the surface.
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@ Zone, i hope you know, the higher the grit sand paper, the finer it is. Just for I took a CD to ~200 Grit sand paper. It was completely destroyed in a few minutes.
@ Toad, would higher grit paper like 1200 or even 2000 grit work?
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Hmmmm ... sanding a disk that is already scratched ... it should only be necessary for deeply scratched disks or ones with surface imperfections ... I recommend you try it with an AOL disk first (you should have plenty of those around ... if not check you mail)
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Hmmmm ... sanding a disk that is already scratched ... it should only be necessary for deeply scratched disks or ones with surface imperfections ... I recommend you try it with an AOL disk first (you should have plenty of those around ... if not check you mail)
Since i couldn't find any 600grit sand paper, I got my old win98 disk and took a high powered belt sander to it:)
I recomend you try with high powered belt sanders on old wind98 CDs first
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Hmmmm ... sanding a disk that is already scratched ... it should only be necessary for deeply scratched disks or ones with surface imperfections ... I recommend you try it with an AOL disk first (you should have plenty of those around ... if not check you mail)
Yes. Trying it on a CD you don't care about first is a very good idea.
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@ Toad, would higher grit paper like 1200 or even 2000 grit work?
The grit has to be low enough to remove the existing scratches. 1200-2000 is very high, so I'm not sure if it would work.
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Thanks, Toadlife for the very detailed discussion.
Something else to consider. Many used CD stores have buffers and polishes for fixing up the CDs they sell. They will usually fix up your CD's for you for a fee, which you can consider if you don't have the necessary tools (and patience).
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are you sure it's the disc when I had a PS2 a few years back it slowly stopped reading most of my discs (until I opened it and cleaned the lens)
by the way, I just got BF2 and it pwns
it is the disk, I have tested it with call of duty works fine. I got my ps2 for free the person gave it to me saying it didn't read controllor just a quick fix to the controllor port and it worked fine :)
Yeh, BF2 does rock best game ever (computer version best)
Just to make sure you know I have been using test cds. I haven't even touched the origanal disk yet. just some aol cds that have come in the mail. the sand paper I used was fine sand paper it said 100 on it. the test cd using wet sanding is not really scratch just looks kind of you know crystalized a kinda whitened look. I will try some silver polish or something to remove that and see if the cd works. to represent the scratches on my cd I took a cd-r or aol cd that came in the mail and then took a nice nife and made it light to heavy scratches on it.
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[OFFTOPIC]What's the correct spelling of disk/disc?
Is one US and the other UK or can you spell it either way?
Or is a disk a floppy disk and a CD a compact disc?[/OFFTOPIC]
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[OFFTOPIC]What's the correct spelling of disk/disc?
Is one US and the other UK or can you spell it either way?
Or is a disk a floppy disk and a CD a compact disc?[/OFFTOPIC]
[offtopic]IIRC, technically speaking, "disk" is shorthand for floppy "diskette" whereas "disc" is shorthand for "discus" - the former being based on the original term, the latter being a loose description of the device. The two are used interchangeably nowadays, often by people claiming one to be the Anglican spelling, but I doubt that such a claim is valid, as I've seen no evidence in recent Oxford entries to support it.[/offtopic]
EDIT: Having re-checked Merriam-Webster and Oxford Compact, it would appear that the two agree.
Oxford "Disc (2)" (http://www.askoxford.com/concise_oed/disc) has the notation that the word is "disk" when referring to "an information storage device for a computer, on which data is stored either magnetically or optically" while Webster's "disk(1,noun) (4c)" (http://www.m-w.com/dictionary/disk) denotes a disk as "a round flat plate coated with a magnetic substance on which data for a computer is stored."
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[OFFTOPIC] Whoah ... never realized there were two types of disk or disc ... usually I use disk ... disc seems like an incomplete word ... and it is, it's supposed to be discus :) [/OFFTOPIC]
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No Hollywood Video, Family Video, Disc Go Round or any other kinda shop that specializes in selling used music, games or movies or a rental shop near by? They usually have a buffing machine, they charge like $1.50 a disc but I haven't had a problem with it, done like 3 discs, PS2, PSOne and a CD I think. The rental shops here all have them cept blockbuster as far as I know, I have them check the DVDs and games for scratches before I pay, need that bit of insurance cause I ain't paying for a disc that someone else fucked up.
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Yeh, BF2 does rock best game ever (computer version best)
You must be joking, BF2 is full of shit.
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You must be joking, BF2 is full of shit.
I couldn't agree more :D
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I couldn't agree more :D
It's all a matter of taste. I am a simulation buff, so I personally think games like BF2 are crap because they are not realistic. I don't care how pretty the graphics are, if you can get shot five times and still be alive then the game is shit to me.
The two war games which I really liked over the last few years are Operation Flashpoint (UBER REALISM BABY!) and Hidden and Dangerous 1 and 2. Both of these games are realistic in that they are very difficult and getting shot just once means instant death 90% of the time.
People that like games like BF2 and counter strike tend to NOT like games like Hidden and Dangerous and Flashpoint and vice versa.
Each to his own. :)
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Getting a bit off topic ...
I think one of the best, most realistic shooting games was Rogue Spear ... an ancient game ... 1 shot to kill, unless you hit 'em in the arm or something. I pwnd everyone in that game ... mostly because I ran around full speed and shot people in the back of the head ... they thought I was cheating. (Other games where I dominated the competition ... Mechwarrior (all of 'em) and Aliens vs. Predator 2 (as a predator ... you can truly be an army of one ... I once won the game ... highest score, most kills ... as me alone on one team vs. everyone else on 2 other teams ... me vs. ~11-12 other ppl !)
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America's Army.
One of my favorite, and one of the hardest games ever. Probably one of the only FPS games in which big guns will get you killed.
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America's Army.
One of my favorite, and one of the hardest games ever. Probably one of the only FPS games in which big guns will get you killed.
the n00b canon(big arse machine gun) in CS:S is usually 1 hit kill
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It's all a matter of taste. I am a simulation buff, so I personally think games like BF2 are crap because they are not realistic. I don't care how pretty the graphics are, if you can get shot five times and still be alive then the game is shit to me.
The two war games which I really liked over the last few years are Operation Flashpoint (UBER REALISM BABY!) and Hidden and Dangerous 1 and 2. Both of these games are realistic in that they are very difficult and getting shot just once means instant death 90% of the time.
People that like games like BF2 and counter strike tend to NOT like games like Hidden and Dangerous and Flashpoint and vice versa
I like battlefield2 Need for speed and all those simulator games but I also Like science fiction games like halo and killzone.
Halo has the issue with only 4 weapons work the pistal flamethrower rocket and fuelrod. All the other weapons off load as much as you want there almost useless
as for H_TeXMeX_H he just plan crazy he doesn't like bf2 and he doesn't like sony. GOD wow what are you a microsoft fanboy. you have a xbox with the game of the year for having the most gliches Halo.
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Getting a bit off topic ...
I think one of the best, most realistic shooting games was Rogue Spear
That game was semi-realistic (certainly better than games like MOAA), but..
...I ran around full speed and shot people in the back of the head ...
....That is *completely* unrealistic. ;)
If you tried doing that in flashpoint you'd more likely shoot yourself (from a ricochet off the ground) than anything else.
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Yeah, but it was the most realistic game I've played, excluding the running and shooting bit ... really you could only do that without armor, but I'm not sure it's completely unrealistic. The shooting reticule expanded while running, making shots far less accurate depending on weapon-specific recoil ... so, ok I didn't always land a headshot from behind, but if you stopped or slowed down when right behind 'em you could get a headshot. The more efficient way was to just run and fire until they drop ... handguns would work great for this, not assault rifles. I remember once I had an HK G3A3 ... and my team kept team killing me ... so I got pissed and next round I killed them all (except 1 guy) with 1 clip ... it sprayed bullets everywhere :D
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by the way, I just got BF2 and it sucks donkey balls.
fixed your post.
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ok then, lets get back on topic
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I dunno, scratched CDs are not that much of a problem as long as you don't use an XBox or a shitty DVD-ROM or CD-ROM drive. I've never had any problems with unreadable disks before ... even though some disks were really scratched. I think it's only the deep scratches that seriously affect readability.
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I dunno, scratched CDs are not that much of a problem as long as you don't use an XBox or a shitty DVD-ROM or CD-ROM drive.
Or as long as you aren't a retard who can't take care of your CDs. Seriously, I have CDs near a decade old with almost nothing noticable on them.
Oh, yeah...it also doesn't help when you buy a CD that comes in a strange, "special edition" case, in which the CD touches the back of the case. (read: David Gilmour's new CD)
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It doesn't have to be a scratch. I just got back from Tampa from a nieces' wedding. My father was instaling Ubuntu on a Dell but needed help with his 98SE pc. One of my archive pc program discs had a green oval spot on the underside. I gave him the backup cd's with the eMachine I wasn't using.
The cd locked up the computer it was in trying to read the unreadable DirectX 8.1 backup I had made. Cleaning it with dishwashing liquid and buffing it with a cloth did no good. Fortunately I make frequent backups. My father doesn't believe in jewel cases, he uses plastic sleeve compacts. I'm not sure what it touched, but that cd is a frisbee now.
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Note that the paper CD cases do scratch CDs ... paper of any kind next to a CD will scratch it.
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Damn, this isn't my week. A program I paid $70 for is going to be sent back. The blue silk screen on the front ate the data layer. If you hold it up to a light, you can see through it. It locks up my drives trying to read something that's no longer there. The silk screen is still pretty, though. I never thought to back this one up. When I get the replacement, I'll copy it and install from the copy just to make sure I got it this time.
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Of course making a backup copy probably violates the EULA so you're screwd if you don't brake the law.
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But who's gonna know and who's gonna care to report you?
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Of course making a backup copy probably violates the EULA so you're screwd if you don't brake the law.
Actually you can make as many backup copies as you like (under US law) despite what it says in the EULA. They just like to tell you that you can't.
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Actually you can make as many backup copies as you like (under US law) despite what it says in the EULA. They just like to tell you that you can't.
That depends on prevailing jurisdiction. "Fair use" has traditionally been upheld as the exception to the rule, but the DMCA seems to exempt "copy-controlled devices" from such possibilities as forcing copies could easily be seen as "circumventing copyright protection devices with intent." In the U.S., the Supreme Court has yet to return a clear and nonpartisan ruling on the issue, so for the time being the legalities are left to individual circuit and appeals courts.